Aloha MM’s,
Well, her we are at ‘Ye olde
state park’ in the middle of nowhere. You’ve seen that program The Middle,
where they show you NOTHING but corn fields… Yes—right there! The most
interesting things in these parts so far, has been a woman on the back of a
motor-trike happily reading her book on Kindle as they barreled down the
freeway. LOL. Oh, and we crossed a state line, so when I started this, we
were in Illinois and not Indiana
anymore. A state line didn’t do much to change the landscape. Nor the energy
—and people wonder why I go a bit crazy in the Mid-West.
Changing direction, we were
in the Mid-East, Memphis, Valley
of the Kings…or more precisely, Mid-East USA, Memphis,
TN and Valley
of THE KING.
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Coming into Memphis ~ The Valley of the Kings, there is a pyramid |
The man himself—Elvis!!!
And another King, who made an equally big impact on the world in a different
way in Memphis, Tennessee—Dr. Martin Luther King Jr—shot on the balcony of the Lorraine Motel in
downtown Memphis, on April 4 1968.
This last week has reminded
me that dreamers are often shot down for their beliefs, for their dreams.
That while some people admire dreamers—dreamers often push peoples buttons
and make people feel angry on some level. In their rigid, narrow minded
world, governed by the head, rules, and practical ways, there is no room for
dreamers or people who do not do things by the book. They scare people for
reasons I can’t fathom.
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All the bar stools in Sun Records have someone's name on them that recorded there |
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was
a dreamer. Elvis Presley was a dreamer. People like Sam Phillips of Sun
Studios was a dreamer. And in a world that values using your head, above your
heart—this is not always appreciated.
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Sam Phillips ~ the man behind Sun Records |
I am also a dreamer. Perhaps
I relate to Dr. King on a soul level because in 1963, the year I was born, he
delivered his timeless speech, “I have a dream…” Then on my 5th
birthday on April 4 1968,
a single gun shot rung out and in minutes a great dreamer in this world was
dead.
As we spent time in Memphis,
I realized that without a dream in our heart, we might as well be dead too.
We drove into Memphis,
TN on a stinking hot steamy day and then out the other side again. We
ended up staying in Marion, Arkansas
—home of NOTHING. Later we find out that we could have easily stayed at the
campground next to Graceland and it would have been
just fine. People had told us things like: Omigod, be careful in Memphis,
it’s really dangerous (just about every person said this to us) and that the Graceland
camping ground had barbed wire around its perimeter. NEITHER of these things
was true.
We wondered why people had
said this. I wondered if it was because Nashville
was a predominantly white boy country town and Memphis
is predominantly a black town.
Perhaps they were feeling
the energy there, blood embedded into the streets of places like Memphis and
all over the South, as people fought for basic human rights back in the
fifties and sixties in a racially segregated America.
And while that may sound
‘overly’ dramatic. I cannot really express how seeing the Civil Rights Museum
made us feel. We came away from there shell shocked on a soul level at the
way people were treated. It is quite horrific that human beings can do that
to other human beings.
The museum at the old
Lorraine Motel in downtown Memphis,
where Dr. King was shot has a large white with red flowers wreath at the
spot of his death. They even have a piece of concrete there that has his
blood on it—that bit is quite horrible. They have kept the room just
previously to Dr. King being shot, exactly as it was that day. This part of
the motel stands immemorial to his death and has not been changed since that
day.
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The Lorraine Motel in Memphis, TN, now preserved as The Civil Rights Museum |
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Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was shot and killed on this balcony on 4th April 1968. Everything is preserved in the room, exactly the way it was when Dr. King was shot. |
What made someone so angry
that they would shoot a fellow human being?
In a so called ‘civilized’
Western country, only a short 50 to 60 years back down the road, we have
perhaps forgotten the fight that went on here for what were BASIC human
rights. The first slaves came out in 1619 and it took until 1960 to get some
basic civil rights. How does that work? Shame on you white America.
Dr. King came to support the
garbage workers here in the city of Memphis
who were treated, pun intended—like garbage. Most of them were
African-Americans and were on poverty wages. But this was just one struggle
for basic human decency. All over the South, people were fighting things like
racial segregation but more than that, the right to be treated as a human
being. The fight against shocking discrimination.
Part of his speech:
I have a dream that one
day even the state of Mississippi, a state sweltering with the heat of
injustice, sweltering with the heat of oppression, will be transformed into
an oasis of freedom and justice.
I have a dream that my
four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be
judged by the color of their skin but by the content of their character.
And this fight was not a new
fight. It had been going on for hundreds of years. And for more than a
decade, the people had started to rise up and have a strong voice. In 1955,
Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat on a Montgomery,
AL city bus to a white man. For this, she
was arrested and sent to jail. It sounds simple in a way but there’s a bit
more to this story.
Buses, like many places,
were segregated. Whites on the front, blacks or coloreds (I use the
derogatory colored to show the impact here) on the back. They had signs for
this. When the bus pulled up, a black person would walk onto the front of the
bus, pay the fare, THEN have to get off the bus again, and walk to the doors
at the back to board. Sometimes, they bus would depart before they had made
it to the back doors.
The seats were 4 across the
bus—2 on either side of the aisle. The bus driver had the discretion to
move the card denoting the line between black and white. But the LAW required
that a black person give up his seat to a white person.
On this day, a white man
entered the bus and there were no white seats left. There was one white man
with no seat and 4 colored people occupying 4 seats. When the white man got
on, 2 of the colored people got up and left their seats and stood. Black
people were not allowed to sit across the aisle from white people. The person
next to Rosa Parks did the same thing. But Rosa
refused. This was required BY LAW, you could not have a colored person
sitting in a row with a white person. So 4 black people had to get up and
stand for one white man. This makes my skin crawl.
Rosa Parks refused. She
said, I paid my fare, I am not getting up. They arrested her.
This led to the Montgomery
Bus Boycott which lasted for 13 months and nobody rode the buses. When I say
nobody…I mean the African-American community. 40,000 black commuters, 75% of
the people who used the buses. The buses for the most part, sat idle. People
walked, carpooled (even when a law was enacted that made it illegal for them
to do that,) they rode with friends, they taxied. Black taxis charged people
the 10 cent fare they would have had to pay on the buses. Can you imagine
what this must have cost people? Imagine walking miles to work in the
stifling soup kitchen heat. It was like a sauna. For 13 months, they held out
in protest. Eventually, it crippled the bus system and segregation was
outlawed on the buses. Thank god.
This fight and many others
went on all over the South of the US.
Segregation was in schools, in restaurants, in movie theatres. Some whites
stood up for what they knew was wrong and got beaten up for their beliefs.
The Klu Klux Klan—a bunch of cowards and people with IQ’s in the low 20’s,
terrorized people. People got lynched. Martin Luther King’s house got bombed?
We cringed when we saw this
museum, when we realized how much the people had gone through.
This was a very somber part
of Memphis, and we were glad we
saw it. At the end of the day, it seems we are still learning how to be human.
This was the dark side of Memphis;
there were also some light moments.
The first day of
sightseeing, we had our first stop at the Peabody Hotel. This hotel is a
grand old hotel in Memphis City
and it’s lovely. Very elegant and regal. But what makes the Peabody
noteworthy is that they have had some special guests that come everyday to
the hotel and splash around in their fountain in the central lobby. These are
the Peabody Ducks. World famous in Memphis, TN!
They started as a bit of a
joke, when someone brought back some ducks from duck hunting (bleuch) and set
them loose in the fountain at the hotel. Since then, no duck has EVER
frequented the menu and never will!
These ducks are superstars.
(Obviously a few generations of ducks have come and gone since then) But
these guys live on the rooftop of the Peabody Hotel in the Duck
Palace. Every morning at 11am, one Mallard drake and 4 females hop into
elevator and come downstairs to the fountain. The Duck Master keeps a close
eye on them but they know the routine pretty well. For these royalty guests —the red carpet is laid out from the elevator to the fountain.
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Tons of people come everyday to see the ducks charge down the red carpet |
You have to keep your camera
on speed mode because when that door opens, they SPRINT…really, they charge
down the red carpet at warp speed and plop straight into the fountain, where
they paddle around all day to their hearts content. At 5pm, they are herded (more slowly this time) back on the
red carpet and into the elevator and back home for the night.
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See them there, just about to hop into the fountain. |
This daily rituals has been
going on since 1938.
It’s a hoot. We asked the
Duck Master how he became a Duck Master? “Oh, years and years of being
in the right place, at the right time,” he said. It’s a VERY serious job at
the Peabody and the ducks are
much loved by everyone. They have ducks woven into the carpet, set into the
elevator floors, etched on glass. Very fun!
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The Peabody Hotel Duck Master |
From there, we wandered not
too far down the road to another star making place in Memphis
- home of the Sun Studio. A wee old brick building on the corner that still
has a recording studio there. And that very same studio recorded the first
records of: Elvis, Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Lewis and
Ike Turner. There’s a famous photo there that I’ve seen a million times with
Elvis on piano and 3 guys standing behind him. I’ve never really clicked who
they were. Backing Elvis for a bit of an impromptu jam one day were Jerry Lee
Lewis, Carl Perkins and Johnny Cash. Wow, what a line up!
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Sun Record where Rock and Roll history was made and recorded |
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Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, with Elvis at the piano |
Sam Phillips was the man who
started Sun Studio. It’s just a small studio and it wasn’t really even Sam
who spotted Elvis. The story goes that Elvis, who was a truck driver at the
time, came into Sun Studios to cut a record for his mama’s birthday. (This
was probably a wee bit of charm, because his mama Glady’s birthday had been
and gone and they were probably too poor to own a record player.) He didn’t
speak to Sam, but to Sam’s secretary, who set it up for him. I think for 2.50
you could go and cut a record in those days. She thought he had something and
made a copy and played it to Sam later. Sam thought, he was ‘okay,’ but not
wow.
About a year later, Elvis
was hanging around the recording studio and Sam got him to sing with Bill
Black and Scotty More. After hours of mucking around and not much happening,
Elvis started to muck around with an old blues song and sung ‘That’s All
Right,’ ‘like no blues song had ever been heard before.’ This time Sam was
wowed and as they say, the rest is history! Sam signed Elvis and Elvis went
on to be THE KING.
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Bono from U2 - they also recorded an album here |
Now, you can cringe all you
like about Elvis, (he has become so clichéd) but he was a great entertainer
and as we saw going around Graceland, a very nice
person to boot.
At Sun we got a great wee
tour on how rock and roll started out. We got to stand in the recording
studio where it all happened. Still pretty much as it was back in Elvis and
Jerry Lee Lewis made their recordings! Very authentic, right down to the
grungy falling apart acoustic ceiling tiles. You can still cut a ‘record’
there today if you have a mind too! It was great!
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A young Elvis in Tupelo, MS |
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Aaron doing his best Elvis impersonation |
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A very unassuming wee building on the corner |
After that, we went to the
King of Attractions in Memphis—Graceland!
(Just had to say that…:-) ) It was just fabulous!!!
Graceland
is not what you are expecting. For a start, the house is much smaller than
you think it’s going to be. It was part of the original Graceland Farms,
which is where the name came from. Elvis bought Graceland
when he was 22, after giving his parents a budget of 100,000 dollars and
saying he wanted a farm house type setting. At that time, Graceland
was outside the central city limits. They call this house a mansion but
really, it’s a quite nice, probably 4 or 5 bedroom house, two storied and
typical of these parts—a basement.
Despite what you hear about Graceland
being gawdy, tacky, garish, poor taste and white trash. I didn’t find that at
all. Keeping in mind, the house was decorated through the sixties and
seventies—it was actually rather fun. From reports, I had just about
expected there to be rhinestones embedded in the toilet seats and feather boa
couches—you get the idea. But none of that. Elvis could either be called an
over grown school boy or a person with a big sense of fun. I prefer the latter.
Remember too, he was VERY young when he got this house and they came from a
very poor background.
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The living room |
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Elvis's parents Gladys and Vernon Presley |
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The longest sofa I have ever seen |
His kitchen was pretty
normal for that period. A big typical American kitchen with all the gear in
it. His parent’s room was very tastefully done downstairs. The Jungle Room
was not THAT out there. No monkeys hanging off the ceiling or boa
constrictors curled around a chair leg. Gee, I would have done that! I didn’t
much like his taste in ‘jungle’ furniture but I can see why it appealed to
him. It was too masculine for me. But it was his house; he was entitled to
anything he wanted! The yellow bar and TV room downstairs was gorgeous. The
pool table room has 350 yards
of fabric decorating the walls and couches and for some reason it works.
Rather pretty. All pleated and draped. It makes the room feel very cozy.
There were a couple of pieces in there that I would have had in my home.
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His parents bedroom downstairs |
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Dining Room, with big chandelier. Very pretty |
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Kitchen |
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The Media Room and bar downstairs - great colors |
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The pool room, the walls all covered and draped in fabric. It had a nice feel to it |
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The Jungle Room |
The main family
room was lovely. Very nice sofas and chairs and quite elegant
decorations. Sure his dining room had an ENORMOUS chandelier in it, but hey,
if you can’t have something a bit flashy, what the hey. You can see his home
was fun. It has great energy to it. And you can see that he would have loved
entertaining with family and friends. I would have liked living here! It was
homely...
We saw his gravesite and
everyone was a bit teary. A few times, I was a bit teary actually. I LOVED
Elvis. I came home once and had a record I’d found.
I said to mum, “Wait til you
hear this guy mum, you’ve never heard anything like it!”
I put the record on and the
music started and my mum started to laugh, REALLY laugh… rolling around
laughing.
“What!” I said.
Mum said, “That’s Elvis.”
‘Do you know him?” I
innocently said.
Ah… yeah… :-)
I thought I'd discovered the
holy grail...
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There were gold records everywhere |
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The graveyard at Graceland, they are all buried there |
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Elvis's twin brother Jessie Garon Presley |
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His parents graves |
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Elvis's grave |
We wished we had brought
something for the grave. Many people had left things there. I suspect they
clear things off periodically and it gets filled up again pretty fast.
We saw his planes and cars,
his wardrobe. But most of all, we saw this lovely man who became a superstar
and had a dream…
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Priscilla and Lisa Marie Presley |
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I love this. He was a wee bit of a sweetie |
What I know about dreams is
that it’s not that a dream is too big. It’s that you make a dream too small.
If you scale down a dream to
fit a budget or a belief system or because other people are offended by it or
think you are silly or impractical or just plain stupid—you have killed the
dream.
You have shot yourself in
the foot, before you have even began to live.
It’s thanks to dreamers that
the world is what it is today. If all the cynical people had a free hand in
the world, the world would get nowhere. There was an inventors club in the
1800’s which closed down, because they thought there were no more things to
invent.
But thank god for the
dreamers of this world.
The people who believe in
making the impossible, possible.
And go out and do it.
THANK YOU for your visions
and your perseverance!
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