Wednesday, May 7, 2014

The Bear Essentials ~ The Americana Kitsch and Culture Tour

The Bear Essentials. ~ The Americana Kitsch and Culture Tour - originally posted on 15 Jun 2011

 
Aloha MM's,  
Big hugs and lots of love to everyone in Christchurch, New Zealand where they have just had another round of horrific earthquakes. How the hell anyone is sane there, I don't know. These earthquakes are up there on the insanity scale and I hope they STOP really really soon before you all go stark raving mad.  
Speaking of going mad...  
I've discovered why Maine was sooo busy! The basic reason is just ONE thing. The map reader—i.e. moi—read it as 320,000, instead of 1,320,000. Oh! That one little thing does make quite a difference. LOL. Whoopsie. Despite having roughly the same number of people, New Hampshire seemed much more serene and peaceful. It may just have been the area we were in but overall the energy was much better!  
Initially we thought there was nothing at all to see in New Hampshire and were prepared to drive across it—thus justifying the fridge magnet at the very least. But New Hampshire surprised us. Not only did it have better energy but we found 2 fun things to do!
And what I'm realizing A LOT is: at the end of the day. things have to feel good. It's the Bear Essential part of life. Whether that's somewhere you are going, someone you are friends with or something you are doing. There's an old saying, which I like that says:  
People need:  
Something to do 
Someone to love  
and Something to look forward too.  
Ain't that the simple truth. 
 
As we move from State to State, we get to feel all sorts of energy.
Aaron asked me before, when was the last time I felt really enthusiastic about anywhere we have been? Apart from Bar Harbor, the bi-plane ride, the Flume and the bears! I thought back... Jeez—Joyzee! Cape May, New Jersey! And that was WEEKS ago.  
After a while, everything starts to blend in together when things are not very happening. Or the energy is flat! And New England in general was FLAT as a pancake. I had to ask Aaron where we stayed the other night. I didn't have a clue!  
Oh, Vermont—that's right...  
I can't work out whether we we are just jaded from traveling for so long and need to stop. Or whether we have just been in a too low energy State/s for too long. Will things change when we get past the Mason-Dixie (Yes, I know it's Mason-Dixon but Dixie sounds more fun) line? :-) Will a large helping of fried green tomatoes make us feel 'fed' again? I'll be interested to find out when we get back down there...  
There—being Tennessee in essence. I forgot to say the other day, that I asked the Guides when we were struggling to cope with New England—what to do? I immediately got a Tennessee sign. Thank god, I said. And last night, one of my best friends Donnie also confirmed it was there. Knoxville. To be precise. So... stay tuned and let's see what is on the table.  
Currently we are in upstate New York. Just outside Buffalo, NY—home of the backside of Niagara Falls. Tomorrow, we'll take our passports and stroll over the bridge to the country of Canada to see the front side of the Falls. Two countries in two minutes! The last time I was here was 15 years ago in the middle of winter. Minus 22 degrees Celsius and it was like a wonderland. Everything was covered in a hoar frost. Wire trash baskets were sculptures in ice.  
Extremely beautiful and extremely COLD!! I somehow managed to wear the thinnest clothes possible and very thin fashionable leather gloves! I'd been living in Michigan, so I'm not sure what I was really thinking or how I did that! I had to walk from the car to the visitors center, a VERY short walk and as I snapped photos—I could LITERALLY feel the blood and liquid in my fingers start to slow and freeze up. Ghastly sensation! And one I hope to never experience again.   
So going to see the mighty falls in the Summer has always been on my list of things I'd love to do. They are really gorgeous. One of my favorite waterfall spots in the world.  
And speaking of waterfall spots. While we were in New Hampshire, we went to the White Mountain area, almost quite by chance. If you'll recall, we are armchair or car seat nature people. But one of the things that looked really pretty and really interesting was the thing called 'The Flume.' Situated in the Franconia Notch State Park. It is a long narrow walking gorge about maybe 12 feet across as you go up, that has water tunneled through it, creating gorgeous wee waterfalls and rushing water. Rather special.  
 
They have created a walkway alongside the water, hugging the sheer rock wall and you climb up and up for an eighth of a mile, reaching about 1500 ft above sea level. It's spectacular and rates up there with one of my all time favorite waterfall spots in the world. The 'hike' is 2 miles. An eighth of a mile up there and 1.2 back. It says it takes 1 and a 1/4 hours. I know from experience and the triple A book that usually they base this on an average walker, or little old lady, who takes photos and stops often. So, I'm nearly in that category.  
It's pouring with rain and the weather gods are deaf or speaking French or Swahili or something!! For the last two days, they have been uncontrollable! We decide to go anyway and Aaron invests in 2 plastic ponchos for us. We look like Yetis in them. We both wear our coats underneath and I am in —of all things—jandals!! (Translator: flip flops or slippahs) My choice of footwear is limited, because I haven't really allowed for outdoorsy hiking type things on this tour. The truth is: I rarely allow for this type of footwear. We don't let the rain deter us though and we set off up the hill.  
 
 
It's absolutely beautiful. We go over a covered bridge and there are waterfalls and the wet green bush everywhere. It's pouring with rain STILL...and I continuously wipe the camera lens. The water doesn't bother the camera much otherwise. Thank you the tough and trusted Fujifilm FinePix camera I have.  
I think, Fujifilm and Maui Jim should get me to test drive their products. I am the ideal person in everyday and not everyday test situations. I use them in REAL ways. I use them constantly, I use them badly, I drop them all the time, I clean the lenses with my dress, my breath, a napkin, my wool coat and still, they go and go.  
 
We walk on a general path, then start to climb up the flume on the wooden platforms and steps all along the steep sides of the mini gorge. The water roars down, cascading and waterfalling all the way down the hill. It goes probably for a good half a mile. It's is absolutely enchanting.  
 
I huff and puff my way up the hill, my lungs heaving. And by now, we are steaming nicely in our coats and rain ponchos. My feet are sodden and have black mud on them but are not cold. Walking in wet slippahs is hard on the toes though.  
 
We reach the top and I feel like I've just climbed Everest. Then we start our brisk descent to the bottom again. On the way down, we get to quickly stop at what they call 'The Pool.' It's a 40 feet deep, blue green mountain spring water pool. Quite gorgeous and it must be icy cold but it still looks inviting and like it would be fun to swim in. There are photo ops galore here. It is just so strikingly pretty!  
 
We make it back in 1 hour and 30 minutes. I guess the timing was for a little old lady who is a bit fitter than I am and who doesn't have a weak heart and lungs. But not bad going for the most unathletic person on the planet. Despite our rain ponchos, we are still a bit soggy on it, but happy.  
We get back into the nice warm and dryness of the camper and abandon our steam baths. Then up the road nearby to go to Clarks Trading Post. And this was absolutely FABULOUS. 
 
This place has been going since 1928—started by brothers Murray and Ed Clark. And believe it or not, the main attraction is 'performing bears.' I am extremely leery of this, as the thought of this sounds disgusting. The whole 'dancing bear' thing. But the reviews on Trip Advisor—our travel bible, say it's wonderful and the bears are like family and in really good condition. This makes me feel better. Aaron is desperate to see a black bear—preferably not up close and personal in the wild. 
 
We park at the North Conway campground the night before and they have 'Be careful of the bears' signs everywhere. Aaron walks across the grounds in the dark to go to the movies and back around midnight. I am alone in the camper and every noise—I imagine the bears trotting around the campground peering in camper windows, trying door handles, twanging our awning lights etc. I worry about Aaron walking back in the dark.  
Having an overactive imagination is good for a writer!  
 
 
 
We don't manage to see any bears OR moose. Oh well. So, seeing these bears in up close and personal is quite appealing on some level.  
The place is very well run and still run by the original family—son Murray and daughter Maureen now. It's like a mini mini mini Disneyland. I like the bear paw print stamp you get as you come in. There's a train that takes you on a wee journey. A haunted house. Old Americana memorabilia, all nicely done and well run. All part of the entry price.  
 
 
We get something to eat and then go and see the bears in their enclosures before the show. Beautiful enclosures and the most gorgeous bears! The bears are chubby in a good bear way, have glossy healthy coats and look pretty happy altogether. This is a good start. They are  playing—running around in the enclosures, chasing each other. Cleverly pulling sliding doors along with their hands, so their flatmate can't get through...they are very human like as they frolic...it is lovely to watch.  
We go and sit upstairs, where we can peer down into the ring easily without the fence interrupting the view.  
And Omigod...it is completely and utterly enchanting. We are enthralled. Murray Jnr tells us the history and background of the bears and he's really funny!! Quite a show in himself. He's like Steve Irwin without the steroids!  
 
All the bears that have passed away are buried in the gardens of the place, all with their own beautiful headstones. They are much loved family members. These bears come here usually from the wild, and are orphans. The Clarks give them refuge and work with them in a very gentle way. Bears usually last about 8 years in the wild. Here they can live 3 to 4 times that amount of time. Their oldest bear so far has been 38 years old. There are the enclosures here and then a habitat in the woods for them too. They let them run their usual hibernation cycle and check on them to make sure they are okay.  
 
The first bear out is a girl bear called Echo. She's a cutie and weighs in at about 250 lbs! And they are completely adorable. They are so human looking. They stand on their hind legs and sit on things like humans. They get rewarded with ice cream on a teaspoon, which they love. They get fed it after each trick and they sometimes hold the spoon themselves. happily licking away.  
In case you are thinking—feeding bears ice cream??! That's dreadful! It's ONE ice cream! And the rest of their diet is super healthy. You should see their coats and eyes. They are in perfect condition. They are fed dog biscuits for the protein and vitamins and minerals. They also get fed abundant fresh fruit and vegetables. 
 
 
 
We saw one bear get his dinner after the show. He got a huge steel bowl of fruit and vegetables. They're incredibly human in their expressions and mannerisms. We see this bear tip his bowl of food out, then he paws through the selection to see what he's got. He's got some extremely good quality fresh fruit and vegetables. A 1/4 of a whole watermelon, some freshly scrubbed carrots, avocado and other things. The avocado is obviously a big favorite because he grabs that first, and puts his paw on it, while he scrapes the fleshy fruit off with his tongue. He's gorgeous to watch.  
They all are.  
 
 
They weigh themselves, get the mail, sit in a swing, play Frisbee, ride on a scooter and just PLAY. We are riveted watching these wonderful creatures, who seem so human. They are highly intelligent and some of them have developed their own tricks they like doing. One bear, likes to sit on his bottom and grab his feet and rock and smile. He does this until he gets the right amount of applause. Apparently he made this one up himself.  
 
 
 
 
Murray and Maureen are incredibly gentle with the bears. And the bears with them. You can see they are like family pets. Maureen often kissed the bears on the nose, just like I would with Leo. It is beautiful to watch. We see Echo and boy bear with an unpronounceable name who weighs in at about 350 lbs. Then a new baby bear they are working with called Tula. She's so cute.  
We come away from there entranced with the bears. They are adorable and utterly magical. It is one of the highlights of New England and we're so glad we got to see them.  
 
 
 
 
 
We wander off from there in good spirits and cross the border into Vermont and we plop back into flat energy again. Bugger.  
 
We do find a nice place to stay though. It's right on the river and it's called the Moose River Campground. And what's started out as a few 'tasteful' (is there such a thing) moose statues, pictures etc, has now exploded into one of those unstoppable things that happen when you collect things. Not only have THEY brought moose stuff. People have given them moose stuff...so some 3,500 moose items later—it's turned into a Moose-a-rana-cana. You name it—they moose have it. I know...very sad pun. What's even funnier than the moose explosion, which is kind of fun, is the pink flamingo collection. A passion of the owners too. After awhile, it just all looks like a haze, but it somehow works. It's kinda fun.  
 
 
 
 
We go into the small town to pick up some food and Aaron says it reminds him of the Whistle Stop Cafe town in Fried Green Tomatoes. I know what he means. I swear I can hear the twang of a banjo every so often...  
But it's a nice wee place all the same. The next day, it's a slow morning, but that's okay. Despite the grizzly sky, it's not raining yet. So I trot around the campground, in my dress and dressing gown taking photos of the moose-a-rana they have there. It's pretty spectacular.  
 
 
 
 
We 'do' Vermont for the rest of the day. We visit a sugar house, which is quite nice and buy maple syrup and pure maple syrup candies which are delicious. They are like fudge without the cloying sugar afterload.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
We then go and visit the Dog Chapel on Dog Mountain! This was built by an artist called Stephen Huneck who believed that dogs were gods creatures and should be honored accordingly. All his work centers around doggies. And it's very whimsical and fun. There are dog things EVERYWHERE. It's fantastic. Go and see the photos to see what I mean. It's almost too hard to explain!  
 
We go on the day they are having a memorial to Stephen who passed away last year. People have come with their dogs who are all running around the place, like kids at a lolly scramble. The dogs are fun, but the dog people are a bit of a sour bunch for some reason. Inside the gallery with Stephens work, there is a buffet laid out for the humans tp help themselves too. The dogs are hanging around this table hopefully. But they have a ceramic dog head cookie barrel, which has free treats in it for them. We feed a biscuit to a doggie, who takes it gratefully. We imagine a cat place. You could offer free treats to the cats and they'd sniff, assess them and then turn their nose up at it. Then look at you balefully with your lack of insight as to what they really like.  
 
 
 
 
We go over to the Dog Chapel, which is a beautiful wee church/chapel dedicated to doggies.  
 
 
The sign outside says:  
 
Welcome
All Creeds
All Breeds
No Dogmas Allowed.  
There are some lovely dog statues outside, a HIghland terrier, a Jack Russell, a Doberman, a Great Dane, A Labrador, a man and one cat. All done by Stephen! Rather lovely. Inside, there are beautiful stained glass windows with - what else - doggies in every one and all done by Stephen too. All the pews have dog ends on them! Every inch of the walls are covered in photos and memorial notes from people for their loved fur children. Aaron writes a note for Annette and dads doggies Thorn and Molly and puts it up there. I am so hammered by the emotion in there, that I take photos and choked up—I stand outside to catch my breath.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
But it's a lovely place, despite the snotty people. The dogs are running around with each other and they're having fun.  
 
 
 
 
We leave there and by now, the rain is starting to come down in buckets again. So, we drive west across Vermont, stopping in the wee rustic country town of Waterbury. All of Vermont has tiny wee towns like this. If you listen hard enough—you can hear the banjo's warming up... We stop for lunch at the Cider House Pub and BBQ in the hope of some Fried Green Tomatoes...but today they don't have any. Damn.  
 
We are served by a bouncy enthusiastic wee thing called Laurie Ann who is born and bred there in Waterbury. She's only been out of State once in her whole life. To upstate New York—camping with her family when she was younger. She reminds us of a Coaster. (That's the West Coast of the South Island of New Zealand —where some would say that their families trees don't fork much!) She has 65 relatives in the tiny town and tells us where they all live. All just up the road. Lots of er...cousins.  
She's a hoot. 
She's fascinated by us and wants to try the Vegemite. Aaron goes out to the camper to get it and Laurie-Ann tries it on some hot corn bread. We tell her we won't be offended if she doesn't like it. It's an acquired taste, that you have to be brought up on, to tolerate it. But she bravely tries it, screws up her nose, but keeps going. After a couple more bites, she thinks it's not too bad and is thrilled to have tried something from another country. The food is not super fantastic, but she alone is worth the price of the food. The boss says she'll be talking about that all night now. :-) We give her a big hug when we go. She was a sweetie.  
 
Next stop—Ben and Jerrys Ice Cream. By now, we are kind of done with the day. But we go up the wee hill to view the graveyard of the dead ice cream flavors that didn't quite catch on with people. Each with it's own headstone and epitaph. :-)  
 
The Tennessee Mud—Coffee Ice cream with Amaretto, Jack Daniels and almond slivers.  
The bottle is empty
The cup and the glass
Mud with Jack Daniels
Was not meant to last
1988-1989
 
Bovinity Divinity and Miz Jelenas Sweet Potato Pie—love the names. 
Peanuts! Popcorn! - caramel ice cream with white fudge covered caramel popcorn, toffee coated peanuts and a caramel swirl 
Peanuts! Popcorn!
Mix 'em in a pot
Plop 'em in your ice cream
Well, maybe not! 
2000-2000
 
Our dearly departed White Russian  
 
A concoction so to-die-for
We were forever in it's debt
As the liquer kicked the budget
We finally, just had to say, 'nyet.' 
1986-2002 
 
 
This is the best bit of the Ben and Jerry's experience. Very fun. We get an ice cream and a shake and head to Burlington, VT for the night. And thus ends the New England portion of this trip.  
Thank god...  
 
While there have been some fun things...the energy has been hard going. We move into New York State the next day and the weather finally let's up. No surprises there! It's been mirroring the energy pretty well.  
In truth, we probably should have just moved on from New England awhile back. It was a bit of an endurance test in some places. And things are not supposed to be hard. That is not how things should run. If it's hard—it's not right on some level. Just notice how things are going. Things are supposed to be easy. They are supposed to flow. You should bearly have to put in a huge effort. Truly.  
If things aren't feeling good. If they're not easy—they're not right. I realize that just about everything comes down to this Bear Essential. Do I get ice cream? Am I having fun. Can I paw through my food and just eat the fun bits first. In other words—does it feel good?  
If not—it needs to be changed. It's an unerring path through life that can't steer you wrong if you follow it.  
 

 

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