Tuesday, May 27, 2014

I have a dream... ~ The Americana Kitsch and Culture Tour

 
~ The Americana Kitsch and Culture Tour
~ originally posted 11 Jul 2011
 
Aloha MM’s,
Well, her we are at ‘Ye olde state park’ in the middle of nowhere. You’ve seen that program The Middle, where they show you NOTHING but corn fields… Yes—right there! The most interesting things in these parts so far, has been a woman on the back of a motor-trike happily reading her book on Kindle as they barreled down the freeway. LOL. Oh, and we crossed a state line, so when I started this, we were in Illinois and not Indiana anymore. A state line didn’t do much to change the landscape. Nor the energy —and people wonder why I go a bit crazy in the Mid-West.
Changing direction, we were in the Mid-East, Memphis, Valley of the Kings…or more precisely, Mid-East USA, Memphis, TN and Valley of THE KING.
Coming into Memphis ~ The Valley of the Kings, there is a pyramid

 
The man himself—Elvis!!! And another King, who made an equally big impact on the world in a different way in Memphis, Tennessee—Dr. Martin Luther King Jr—shot on the balcony of the Lorraine Motel in downtown Memphis, on April 4 1968.
 
This last week has reminded me that dreamers are often shot down for their beliefs, for their dreams. That while some people admire dreamers—dreamers often push peoples buttons and make people feel angry on some level. In their rigid, narrow minded world, governed by the head, rules, and practical ways, there is no room for dreamers or people who do not do things by the book. They scare people for reasons I can’t fathom.
All the bar stools in Sun Records have someone's name on them that recorded there
 
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was a dreamer. Elvis Presley was a dreamer. People like Sam Phillips of Sun Studios was a dreamer. And in a world that values using your head, above your heart—this is not always appreciated.
Sam Phillips ~ the man behind Sun Records
 
I am also a dreamer. Perhaps I relate to Dr. King on a soul level because in 1963, the year I was born, he delivered his timeless speech, “I have a dream…”  Then on my 5th birthday on April 4 1968, a single gun shot rung out and in minutes a great dreamer in this world was dead.
As we spent time in Memphis, I realized that without a dream in our heart, we might as well be dead too.
We drove into Memphis, TN on a stinking hot steamy day and then out the other side again. We ended up staying in Marion, Arkansas —home of NOTHING. Later we find out that we could have easily stayed at the campground next to Graceland and it would have been just fine. People had told us things like: Omigod, be careful in Memphis, it’s really dangerous (just about every person said this to us) and that the Graceland camping ground had barbed wire around its perimeter. NEITHER of these things was true.
We wondered why people had said this. I wondered if it was because Nashville was a predominantly white boy country town and Memphis is predominantly a black town.
Perhaps they were feeling the energy there, blood embedded into the streets of places like Memphis and all over the South, as people fought for basic human rights back in the fifties and sixties in a racially segregated America.
And while that may sound ‘overly’ dramatic. I cannot really express how seeing the Civil Rights Museum made us feel. We came away from there shell shocked on a soul level at the way people were treated. It is quite horrific that human beings can do that to other human beings.
The museum at the old Lorraine Motel in downtown Memphis, where Dr. King was shot has a large white with red flowers wreath at the spot of his death. They even have a piece of concrete there that has his blood on it—that bit is quite horrible. They have kept the room just previously to Dr. King being shot, exactly as it was that day. This part of the motel stands immemorial to his death and has not been changed since that day.

The Lorraine Motel in Memphis, TN, now preserved as The Civil Rights Museum

 
Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was shot and killed on this balcony on 4th April 1968. Everything is preserved in the room, exactly the way it was when Dr. King was shot.
 

What made someone so angry that they would shoot a fellow human being?
In a so called ‘civilized’ Western country, only a short 50 to 60 years back down the road, we have perhaps forgotten the fight that went on here for what were BASIC human rights. The first slaves came out in 1619 and it took until 1960 to get some basic civil rights. How does that work? Shame on you white America.
Dr. King came to support the garbage workers here in the city of Memphis who were treated, pun intended—like garbage. Most of them were African-Americans and were on poverty wages. But this was just one struggle for basic human decency. All over the South, people were fighting things like racial segregation but more than that, the right to be treated as a human being. The fight against shocking discrimination.
Part of his speech:
I have a dream that one day even the state of Mississippi, a state sweltering with the heat of injustice, sweltering with the heat of oppression, will be transformed into an oasis of freedom and justice.
I have a dream that my four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the color of their skin but by the content of their character.
And this fight was not a new fight. It had been going on for hundreds of years. And for more than a decade, the people had started to rise up and have a strong voice. In 1955, Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat on a Montgomery, AL city bus to a white man. For this, she was arrested and sent to jail. It sounds simple in a way but there’s a bit more to this story.
Buses, like many places, were segregated. Whites on the front, blacks or coloreds (I use the derogatory colored to show the impact here) on the back. They had signs for this. When the bus pulled up, a black person would walk onto the front of the bus, pay the fare, THEN have to get off the bus again, and walk to the doors at the back to board. Sometimes, they bus would depart before they had made it to the back doors.
The seats were 4 across the bus—2 on either side of the aisle. The bus driver had the discretion to move the card denoting the line between black and white. But the LAW required that a black person give up his seat to a white person.
On this day, a white man entered the bus and there were no white seats left. There was one white man with no seat and 4 colored people occupying 4 seats. When the white man got on, 2 of the colored people got up and left their seats and stood. Black people were not allowed to sit across the aisle from white people. The person next to Rosa Parks did the same thing. But Rosa refused. This was required BY LAW, you could not have a colored person sitting in a row with a white person. So 4 black people had to get up and stand for one white man. This makes my skin crawl.
Rosa Parks refused. She said, I paid my fare, I am not getting up. They arrested her.
This led to the Montgomery Bus Boycott which lasted for 13 months and nobody rode the buses. When I say nobody…I mean the African-American community. 40,000 black commuters, 75% of the people who used the buses. The buses for the most part, sat idle. People walked, carpooled (even when a law was enacted that made it illegal for them to do that,) they rode with friends, they taxied. Black taxis charged people the 10 cent fare they would have had to pay on the buses. Can you imagine what this must have cost people? Imagine walking miles to work in the stifling soup kitchen heat. It was like a sauna. For 13 months, they held out in protest. Eventually, it crippled the bus system and segregation was outlawed on the buses. Thank god.
This fight and many others went on all over the South of the US. Segregation was in schools, in restaurants, in movie theatres. Some whites stood up for what they knew was wrong and got beaten up for their beliefs. The Klu Klux Klan—a bunch of cowards and people with IQ’s in the low 20’s, terrorized people. People got lynched. Martin Luther King’s house got bombed?
We cringed when we saw this museum, when we realized how much the people had gone through.
This was a very somber part of Memphis, and we were glad we saw it. At the end of the day, it seems we are still learning how to be human.

 
This was the dark side of Memphis; there were also some light moments.

The first day of sightseeing, we had our first stop at the Peabody Hotel. This hotel is a grand old hotel in Memphis City and it’s lovely. Very elegant and regal. But what makes the Peabody noteworthy is that they have had some special guests that come everyday to the hotel and splash around in their fountain in the central lobby. These are the Peabody Ducks. World famous in Memphis, TN!  

 
 
 
They started as a bit of a joke, when someone brought back some ducks from duck hunting (bleuch) and set them loose in the fountain at the hotel. Since then, no duck has EVER frequented the menu and never will!
These ducks are superstars. (Obviously a few generations of ducks have come and gone since then) But these guys live on the rooftop of the Peabody Hotel in the Duck Palace. Every morning at 11am, one Mallard drake and 4 females hop into elevator and come downstairs to the fountain. The Duck Master keeps a close eye on them but they know the routine pretty well. For these royalty guests —the red carpet is laid out from the elevator to the fountain.
 
Tons of people come everyday to see the ducks charge down the red carpet
 
You have to keep your camera on speed mode because when that door opens, they SPRINT…really, they charge down the red carpet at warp speed and plop straight into the fountain, where they paddle around all day to their hearts content. At 5pm, they are herded (more slowly this time) back on the red carpet and into the elevator and back home for the night.

See them there, just about to hop into the fountain.



 
This daily rituals has been going on since 1938.
It’s a hoot. We asked the Duck Master how he became a Duck Master?  “Oh, years and years of being in the right place, at the right time,” he said. It’s a VERY serious job at the Peabody and the ducks are much loved by everyone. They have ducks woven into the carpet, set into the elevator floors, etched on glass. Very fun!

The Peabody Hotel Duck Master
 
From there, we wandered not too far down the road to another star making place in Memphis - home of the Sun Studio. A wee old brick building on the corner that still has a recording studio there. And that very same studio recorded the first records of: Elvis, Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Lewis and Ike Turner. There’s a famous photo there that I’ve seen a million times with Elvis on piano and 3 guys standing behind him. I’ve never really clicked who they were. Backing Elvis for a bit of an impromptu jam one day were Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins and Johnny Cash. Wow, what a line up!

Sun Record where Rock and Roll history was made and recorded
 
Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, with Elvis at the piano

 
 Sam Phillips was the man who started Sun Studio. It’s just a small studio and it wasn’t really even Sam who spotted Elvis. The story goes that Elvis, who was a truck driver at the time, came into Sun Studios to cut a record for his mama’s birthday. (This was probably a wee bit of charm, because his mama Glady’s birthday had been and gone and they were probably too poor to own a record player.) He didn’t speak to Sam, but to Sam’s secretary, who set it up for him. I think for 2.50 you could go and cut a record in those days. She thought he had something and made a copy and played it to Sam later. Sam thought, he was ‘okay,’ but not wow.


 
About a year later, Elvis was hanging around the recording studio and Sam got him to sing with Bill Black and Scotty More. After hours of mucking around and not much happening, Elvis started to muck around with an old blues song and sung ‘That’s All Right,’ ‘like no blues song had ever been heard before.’ This time Sam was wowed and as they say, the rest is history! Sam signed Elvis and Elvis went on to be THE KING.



Bono from U2 - they also recorded an album here

 
Now, you can cringe all you like about Elvis, (he has become so clichéd) but he was a great entertainer and as we saw going around Graceland, a very nice person to boot.
At Sun we got a great wee tour on how rock and roll started out. We got to stand in the recording studio where it all happened. Still pretty much as it was back in Elvis and Jerry Lee Lewis made their recordings! Very authentic, right down to the grungy falling apart acoustic ceiling tiles. You can still cut a ‘record’ there today if you have a mind too! It was great!


A young Elvis in Tupelo, MS

Aaron doing his best Elvis impersonation


A very unassuming wee building on the corner
 
After that, we went to the King of Attractions in Memphis—Graceland! (Just had to say that…:-) ) It was just fabulous!!!
Graceland is not what you are expecting. For a start, the house is much smaller than you think it’s going to be. It was part of the original Graceland Farms, which is where the name came from. Elvis bought Graceland when he was 22, after giving his parents a budget of 100,000 dollars and saying he wanted a farm house type setting. At that time, Graceland was outside the central city limits. They call this house a mansion but really, it’s a quite nice, probably 4 or 5 bedroom house, two storied and typical of these parts—a basement.





 
Despite what you hear about Graceland being gawdy, tacky, garish, poor taste and white trash. I didn’t find that at all. Keeping in mind, the house was decorated through the sixties and seventies—it was actually rather fun. From reports, I had just about expected there to be rhinestones embedded in the toilet seats and feather boa couches—you get the idea. But none of that. Elvis could either be called an over grown school boy or a person with a big sense of fun. I prefer the latter. Remember too, he was VERY young when he got this house and they came from a very poor background.


The living room

Elvis's parents Gladys and Vernon Presley

The longest sofa I have ever seen

 
His kitchen was pretty normal for that period. A big typical American kitchen with all the gear in it. His parent’s room was very tastefully done downstairs. The Jungle Room was not THAT out there. No monkeys hanging off the ceiling or boa constrictors curled around a chair leg. Gee, I would have done that! I didn’t much like his taste in ‘jungle’ furniture but I can see why it appealed to him. It was too masculine for me. But it was his house; he was entitled to anything he wanted! The yellow bar and TV room downstairs was gorgeous. The pool table room has 350 yards of fabric decorating the walls and couches and for some reason it works. Rather pretty. All pleated and draped. It makes the room feel very cozy. There were a couple of pieces in there that I would have had in my home.

His parents bedroom downstairs

Dining Room, with big chandelier. Very pretty

Kitchen


The Media Room and bar downstairs - great colors

The pool room, the walls all covered and draped in fabric. It had a nice feel to it

The Jungle Room
 
The main family room was lovely. Very nice sofas and chairs and quite elegant decorations. Sure his dining room had an ENORMOUS chandelier in it, but hey, if you can’t have something a bit flashy, what the hey. You can see his home was fun. It has great energy to it. And you can see that he would have loved entertaining with family and friends. I would have liked living here! It was homely...
We toured the whole estate and it was fabulous. What you got the most about Elvis was that he was just a very nice young man, who had a great voice and a lot of charm. Stan Walker reminds me greatly of him. He was a NICE man. If people needed anything, he gave it to them. He was shy and used to get stage fright. He was very close to his mama. He loved his family. He was a bit of a sweetie I suspect. I like that.

Elvis's original house in Tupelo, MS

The back view of Graceland




The first home Elvis every bought
 
We saw his gravesite and everyone was a bit teary. A few times, I was a bit teary actually. I LOVED Elvis. I came home once and had a record I’d found.
I said to mum, “Wait til you hear this guy mum, you’ve never heard anything like it!”
I put the record on and the music started and my mum started to laugh, REALLY laugh… rolling around laughing.
“What!” I said.
Mum said, “That’s Elvis.”
‘Do you know him?” I innocently said.
Ah… yeah… :-) 

I thought I'd discovered the holy grail...  

There were gold records everywhere

The graveyard at Graceland, they are all buried there

Elvis's twin brother Jessie Garon Presley

His parents graves

Elvis's grave


We wished we had brought something for the grave. Many people had left things there. I suspect they clear things off periodically and it gets filled up again pretty fast.
We saw his planes and cars, his wardrobe. But most of all, we saw this lovely man who became a superstar and had a dream…

Priscilla and Lisa Marie Presley



I love this. He was a wee bit of a sweetie


 
What I know about dreams is that it’s not that a dream is too big. It’s that you make a dream too small.
If you scale down a dream to fit a budget or a belief system or because other people are offended by it or think you are silly or impractical or just plain stupid—you have killed the dream.
You have shot yourself in the foot, before you have even began to live.
It’s thanks to dreamers that the world is what it is today. If all the cynical people had a free hand in the world, the world would get nowhere. There was an inventors club in the 1800’s which closed down, because they thought there were no more things to invent.
But thank god for the dreamers of this world.
The people who believe in making the impossible, possible.
And go out and do it.

THANK YOU for your visions and your perseverance!